BEHIND THE BRAND / SOLOVAIR
Forged in tradition and crafted for the future, the iconic footwear brand has been synonymous with quality, durability, and style since 1881. Designed from European Bovine leather, Solovair combines traditional craftsmanship and tooling with the latest technology and materials. We sat down with the brand to delve into their remarkable legacy, unveiling the meticulous blend of tradition, innovation, and unparalleled dedication that have cemented Solovair's status as an iconic footwear brand for over a century.
Solovair has been making hard-wearing designs since 1881. How did the factory begin?
Solovair is manufactured by NPS Shoes Ltd at their factory located in Wollaston, Northamptonshire. In 1881, five Wollaston locals joined forces to establish a co-operative known as the Northamptonshire Productive Society (NPS), with the aim of creating a steady income. Referred to as 'the Duffers' in the local community, they successfully obtained a government contract to produce army boots, which lasted an entire year. With the rise of industrialisation in late nineteenth-century England, the demand for high-quality boots both domestically and internationally steadily grew. This led to NPS experiencing rapid expansion, and by the early 1900s, the company had grown to employ 80 people. Consequently, NPS relocated to a larger, purpose-built factory on South Street in Wollaston in 1899, where they continue their production to this day.
The factory is based in Wollaston in England’s East Midlands region. For people that don’t know the area, tell us about it and how it has changed over the years.
Northamptonshire, England, has a rich heritage of shoemaking, tracing its roots back to the 13th century. The county's favourable conditions, such as ample oak bark for tanning, access to water sources, abundant local materials like leather from nearby cattle markets, and its strategic position for trading, contributed to its prominence in the industry. During the 20th century, hundreds of shoe factories thrived here, churning out millions of pairs a year. However, with the onset of globalisation in the latter half of the century, most of these factories closed, leaving only a few remaining, including of course NPS.
Pronounced “sole of air”, the company is best known for its Derby work boots with soles that trap air in between. How did this invention come about?
NPS has employed various construction methods, including riveted and stitched, stuck-on, vulcanised, and, more recently, Goodyear Welted, which is now used in all our footwear manufacturing processes. The traditional Goodyear Welting technique involves stitching a leather or hard rubber sole directly onto a leather welt. More recently, NPS produce Goodyear Welted footwear featuring a PVC Goodyear Welt and a PVC moulded sole with air pockets. Instead of stitching the sole to the welt, a high-temperature knife is used to fuse them together.
We’ve heard that the making of each shoe starts with a roll of leather equal to a whole cow. Is this true and tell us about the rest of the process?
The process begins in our leather room, where we store rolled leather hides, some as large as 24 feet in diameter. Cutting: The leather is skillfully cut into various shapes based on the pattern. Our experienced "clicker" ensures the hide is used efficiently, playing a game of Tetris to minimise waste.
Closing: The individual pieces are first skived, reducing the edges to sit flat against each other, and then sewn together, to include the lining. This is known as the "upper."
Sole Preparation: A cotton rib is attached to the leather midsole and affixed to a last – a plastic mould resembling a foot. A toe puff is inserted between the upper and the lining at the front, providing structure and stability to the toe area.
Lasting: The last is inserted into the upper, which is pulled tightly over the last in three stages: back part moulding, side stapling, and toe lasting.
Welt Attachment: After trimming the excess leather from lasting, a PVC welt is stitched onto the rib, passing through the upper. It is then flattened to create a smooth surface for sole attachment. The cavity is filled with a wooden shank, enhancing the shoe's stability and strength and a moisture-absorbing, soft viscose material is added.
Sole Attachment: The PVC sole is fused to the PVC welt using an incredibly hot knife. This process traps air inside the cavities of the moulded sole, giving rise to the name "Solovair" (Sole of Air).
Trimming: Excess sole material is carefully trimmed back to achieve the desired shape and the excess recycled.
Breaking the Last: The springs in the last are released, allowing it to be snapped in half and removed from the inside of the footwear, leaving the shoe or boot intact.
Shoe Room: The footwear then enters our "Shoe Room," where it undergoes a beautification process. Fine bristles, waxes, creams, and hand polishing are employed to enhance the appearance.
Quality Control: All footwear undergoes a thorough 20-point quality control check. Once approved, they are boxed and ready to be worn.
As a family-owned business, Solovair prides itself on employing local craftspeople. Who are some of your most long standing employees?
We take immense pride in our commitment to employing local craftspeople, many of whom are Wollaston locals. Within our dedicated team, we have people who have dedicated their entire careers to NPS. One example is Michael Sutton, who joined our factory when he was 15 and is the current longest-serving member with an impressive 50-year tenure. Micheal’s wealth of knowledge and experience in the art of shoemaking is unparalleled, making him an invaluable asset to our team. If there's anything worth knowing about the craft, Michael Sutton is the go-to person.
What role does technology play in Solovair today and how does it work in harmony with 130 years of traditional craftsmanship?
We recognise the importance of integrating technology into our operations while honouring more than 140 years of craftsmanship. Technology is a catalyst for innovation and sustainability within our practices.
We harness technology by exploring new materials, such as plant-based vegan "leather,". We also embrace water-based glues, reducing our environmental footprint, and prioritise waste reduction through technological advancements. For example, we implement recycling methods for our sole trimmings, minimising material wastage and promoting a more sustainable approach.
Computer-aided design (CAD) plays a crucial role in our processes. By using CAD technology, we ensure precise patterns that fit like a glove. This attention to detail enhances the overall quality of our footwear.
We leverage advances in machinery to automate specific aspects of our manufacturing process, which not only saves time but also enables cost-effectiveness, allowing us to offer English-made footwear at affordable prices without compromising on quality. By seamlessly integrating technology into our craftsmanship, we strike a harmonious balance between innovation and tradition, ultimately delivering exceptional footwear to our valued customers.
Solovair has survived two world wars, a pandemic, multiple recessions and is distributed in all four corners of the world. What do you think is the secret of its success?
The enduring success of Solovair can be attributed to three key factors: continuity, provenance and heritage.
Continuity: NPS has remained steadfast in producing footwear in the same village for over 140 years. This unwavering commitment to our roots has allowed us to establish a strong foundation of craftsmanship and expertise. With each passing generation, our skilled craftspeople have diligently passed on their knowledge, skills, and traditions, fostering a sense of continuity and preserving the essence of our shoemaking process.
Provenance: Our longstanding manufacturing presence in England has earned us a reputation for quality and authenticity. The fact that Solovair has weathered two world wars, a pandemic and multiple recessions speaks to our resilience and ability to adapt to changing times. Our customers recognise the value of our local roots and the trust that comes with it.
Heritage: The rich heritage embedded within Solovair is a testament to the dedication and passion of our craftsmen and craftswomen. Inside the walls of our factory, each generation has embraced the responsibility of upholding and refining our time-honoured shoemaking techniques.
This ongoing commitment to excellence and continuous improvement ensures that we deliver footwear of exceptional quality to our customers. Through the combination of continuity, provenance, and heritage, Solovair has thrived and expanded its reach to all corners of the globe. Our unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and the preservation of our time-tested traditions has been instrumental in our enduring success.
BEHIND THE BRAND / SOLOVAIR
Forged in tradition and crafted for the future, the iconic footwear brand has been synonymous with quality, durability, and style since 1881. Designed from European Bovine leather, Solovair combines traditional craftsmanship and tooling with the latest technology and materials. We sat down with the brand to delve into their remarkable legacy, unveiling the meticulous blend of tradition, innovation, and unparalleled dedication that have cemented Solovair's status as an iconic footwear brand for over a century.
Solovair has been making hard-wearing designs since 1881. How did the factory begin?
Solovair is manufactured by NPS Shoes Ltd at their factory located in Wollaston, Northamptonshire. In 1881, five Wollaston locals joined forces to establish a co-operative known as the Northamptonshire Productive Society (NPS), with the aim of creating a steady income. Referred to as 'the Duffers' in the local community, they successfully obtained a government contract to produce army boots, which lasted an entire year. With the rise of industrialisation in late nineteenth-century England, the demand for high-quality boots both domestically and internationally steadily grew. This led to NPS experiencing rapid expansion, and by the early 1900s, the company had grown to employ 80 people. Consequently, NPS relocated to a larger, purpose-built factory on South Street in Wollaston in 1899, where they continue their production to this day.
The factory is based in Wollaston in England’s East Midlands region. For people that don’t know the area, tell us about it and how it has changed over the years.
Northamptonshire, England, has a rich heritage of shoemaking, tracing its roots back to the 13th century. The county's favourable conditions, such as ample oak bark for tanning, access to water sources, abundant local materials like leather from nearby cattle markets, and its strategic position for trading, contributed to its prominence in the industry. During the 20th century, hundreds of shoe factories thrived here, churning out millions of pairs a year. However, with the onset of globalisation in the latter half of the century, most of these factories closed, leaving only a few remaining, including of course NPS.
Pronounced “sole of air”, the company is best known for its Derby work boots with soles that trap air in between. How did this invention come about?
NPS has employed various construction methods, including riveted and stitched, stuck-on, vulcanised, and, more recently, Goodyear Welted, which is now used in all our footwear manufacturing processes. The traditional Goodyear Welting technique involves stitching a leather or hard rubber sole directly onto a leather welt. More recently, NPS produce Goodyear Welted footwear featuring a PVC Goodyear Welt and a PVC moulded sole with air pockets. Instead of stitching the sole to the welt, a high-temperature knife is used to fuse them together.
We’ve heard that the making of each shoe starts with a roll of leather equal to a whole cow. Is this true and tell us about the rest of the process?
The process begins in our leather room, where we store rolled leather hides, some as large as 24 feet in diameter. Cutting: The leather is skillfully cut into various shapes based on the pattern. Our experienced "clicker" ensures the hide is used efficiently, playing a game of Tetris to minimise waste.
Closing: The individual pieces are first skived, reducing the edges to sit flat against each other, and then sewn together, to include the lining. This is known as the "upper."
Sole Preparation: A cotton rib is attached to the leather midsole and affixed to a last – a plastic mould resembling a foot. A toe puff is inserted between the upper and the lining at the front, providing structure and stability to the toe area.
Lasting: The last is inserted into the upper, which is pulled tightly over the last in three stages: back part moulding, side stapling, and toe lasting.
Welt Attachment: After trimming the excess leather from lasting, a PVC welt is stitched onto the rib, passing through the upper. It is then flattened to create a smooth surface for sole attachment. The cavity is filled with a wooden shank, enhancing the shoe's stability and strength and a moisture-absorbing, soft viscose material is added.
Sole Attachment: The PVC sole is fused to the PVC welt using an incredibly hot knife. This process traps air inside the cavities of the moulded sole, giving rise to the name "Solovair" (Sole of Air).
Trimming: Excess sole material is carefully trimmed back to achieve the desired shape and the excess recycled.
Breaking the Last: The springs in the last are released, allowing it to be snapped in half and removed from the inside of the footwear, leaving the shoe or boot intact.
Shoe Room: The footwear then enters our "Shoe Room," where it undergoes a beautification process. Fine bristles, waxes, creams, and hand polishing are employed to enhance the appearance.
Quality Control: All footwear undergoes a thorough 20-point quality control check. Once approved, they are boxed and ready to be worn.
As a family-owned business, Solovair prides itself on employing local craftspeople. Who are some of your most long standing employees?
We take immense pride in our commitment to employing local craftspeople, many of whom are Wollaston locals. Within our dedicated team, we have people who have dedicated their entire careers to NPS. One example is Michael Sutton, who joined our factory when he was 15 and is the current longest-serving member with an impressive 50-year tenure. Micheal’s wealth of knowledge and experience in the art of shoemaking is unparalleled, making him an invaluable asset to our team. If there's anything worth knowing about the craft, Michael Sutton is the go-to person.
What role does technology play in Solovair today and how does it work in harmony with 130 years of traditional craftsmanship?
We recognise the importance of integrating technology into our operations while honouring more than 140 years of craftsmanship. Technology is a catalyst for innovation and sustainability within our practices.
We harness technology by exploring new materials, such as plant-based vegan "leather,". We also embrace water-based glues, reducing our environmental footprint, and prioritise waste reduction through technological advancements. For example, we implement recycling methods for our sole trimmings, minimising material wastage and promoting a more sustainable approach.
Computer-aided design (CAD) plays a crucial role in our processes. By using CAD technology, we ensure precise patterns that fit like a glove. This attention to detail enhances the overall quality of our footwear.
We leverage advances in machinery to automate specific aspects of our manufacturing process, which not only saves time but also enables cost-effectiveness, allowing us to offer English-made footwear at affordable prices without compromising on quality. By seamlessly integrating technology into our craftsmanship, we strike a harmonious balance between innovation and tradition, ultimately delivering exceptional footwear to our valued customers.
Solovair has survived two world wars, a pandemic, multiple recessions and is distributed in all four corners of the world. What do you think is the secret of its success?
The enduring success of Solovair can be attributed to three key factors: continuity, provenance and heritage.
Continuity: NPS has remained steadfast in producing footwear in the same village for over 140 years. This unwavering commitment to our roots has allowed us to establish a strong foundation of craftsmanship and expertise. With each passing generation, our skilled craftspeople have diligently passed on their knowledge, skills, and traditions, fostering a sense of continuity and preserving the essence of our shoemaking process.
Provenance: Our longstanding manufacturing presence in England has earned us a reputation for quality and authenticity. The fact that Solovair has weathered two world wars, a pandemic and multiple recessions speaks to our resilience and ability to adapt to changing times. Our customers recognise the value of our local roots and the trust that comes with it.
Heritage: The rich heritage embedded within Solovair is a testament to the dedication and passion of our craftsmen and craftswomen. Inside the walls of our factory, each generation has embraced the responsibility of upholding and refining our time-honoured shoemaking techniques.
This ongoing commitment to excellence and continuous improvement ensures that we deliver footwear of exceptional quality to our customers. Through the combination of continuity, provenance, and heritage, Solovair has thrived and expanded its reach to all corners of the globe. Our unwavering dedication to craftsmanship and the preservation of our time-tested traditions has been instrumental in our enduring success.
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